he wonders of the Apuseni are not above, but underground. Hidden in deep valleys are extensive limestone formations that give rise to some spectacularly eroded scenery. It turns out the whole region is like a big, white chunk of swiss cheese, thoroughly carved by underground rivers for millions of years. The forests hide sinkholes, which are like magical gates to the kingdom below. The most impressive is called Cetatile Ponorului, where the powerful river managed to pierce a passage through a whole mountain, giving birth to an imense natural bridge. Another unique place is a cave called Focul Viu (the Live Fire), which owes its name to a curious lighting effect. The summer sun shines through a tiny opening at a precise time of the day, and bounces off the glacier inside the cavern, illuminating the walls with a strange glow. Yet another favorite spot is Scarisoara cave, site of a large underground glacier. None of the caves in this region is organized for visiting, so you can enter only at your own risk.

arther away in the northern range of the Apuseni, lies the most beautiful of all Romanian caves. It is called Pestera Ursilor (The Bears' Cave), and was discovered less than 20 years ago. It owes its name to the remains of an ancient species of bear that were discovered here. This cave is fully lighted and beautifully arranged for visiting (you shouldn't miss the occasion).